Up early to fix the rear brake master cylinder on Dave’s bike that fell off and melted on the exhaust yesterday. Bled the system, all seemed ok. Dave found out he’s just become an uncle for the first time. Elected to take the southern route to Kalaichum as it’s apparently better road and we still have road tyres on. Good ride, nice fast road, good views. Some left over mudslides on the road, now dry and easy to navigate, but making us glad we weren’t here 2 weeks ago when it was raining and the mudslides were fresh. Dave’s bike running perfectly, but the rear master cylinder sprung another leak. Got to Kulob about 3pm, found a massive soviet hotel, far too big for the town, and decided to check in and have a breather til it gets cooler, then set about changing tyres. Attracted a lot of attention arriving at the hotel, till the staff shouted at the kids to clear off. Had dinner in the hotel restaurant, wierdly empty, some sort of chicken stew even though i asked for steak and chips. Then 4 hours changing tyres in front of the hotel, right outside the entrance, with a full crowd of onlookers sat or stood watching for the whole 4 hours. Only got 3 tyres done, still need to do my front. My rear tyre was painful, hard to get on and then wouldn’t stay up so we had to start again. Absolutely worn out and filthy with grime, back to the hotel room to clean up and have a beer.